SHALLOW WATER WAVE PHYSICS

Kern E. Kenyon

4632 North Lane, Del Mar, USA Email: kernken@aol.com

ABSTRACT Einstein’s elementary water wave model [1] is adapted to surface gravity waves propagating in shallow water, and it is carried to the point where the classical phase speed formula is derived: c=√gh, where c is the phase speed, g the acceleration of gravity, and h the mean depth of water, which is assumed to be much smaller than the wavelength. Thus a shorter way to explain why tsunamis travel so quickly in the deep ocean depths is presented in contrast to the lengthy mathematical discussions found in the literature.

Key words: Tsunami, phase speed

Cite this article: Kenyon, K.E. (2019). Shallow Water Wave Physics. European International Journal of Science and Technology, 8(4), 9-11.